Mobile: center pinned post, pagination fixes, minor layout tweaks

- First (pinned) post on mobile: title and image centered
- Pagination: restored page counter on mobile, buttons above footer
- Typography and layout minor improvements

Co-Authored-By: Claude Sonnet 4.6 <noreply@anthropic.com>

content/gallery.md

@@ -1,11 +1,7 @@
 +++
-# title = 'Галерея'
+title = 'Галерея'
 slug = 'gallery'
 +++
-{{< rawhtml >}}
-<h3 align="center">Галерея</h3>
-{{< /rawhtml >}}
-
 {{< load-photoswipe >}}
 {{< gallery caption-effect="fade" >}}
 {{< figure src="https://s3.regru.cloud/sleeptrip-dev/images/Radiotele_20250406_1.jpg" >}}

content/map.md

@@ -1,12 +1,8 @@
 +++
-# title = 'Карта поездок'
+title = 'Карта поездок'
 slug = 'map'
 disableComments = true
 +++
-{{< rawhtml >}}
-<h3 align="center">Карта поездок</h3>
-{{< /rawhtml >}}
-  
 {{< rawhtml >}}
 <script type="text/javascript" charset="utf-8" async src="https://api-maps.yandex.ru/services/constructor/1.0/js/?um=constructor%3A77187bdb95bee620ff3ba0b321fcb359dc2750eb2dd0c916a37468fdf08ef30a&amp;width=100%25&amp;height=400&amp;lang=ru_RU&amp;scroll=true"></script>
 {{< /rawhtml >}}